Food Society
91 Riley Street,
Darlinghurst, Sydney
There is no better cause for celebration than a birthday. Especially when it’s the birthday of a beloved dining establishment! So recently the Earl and Countess were extremely excited to help celebrate the fifth birthday of Brendan Lloyd and Sonia Stanojevic’s freshly renovated, modern European eatery, the Food Society, nestled in the middle of Riley Street, Darlinghurst.
From beginning to end the Food Society birthday party was a night where the gifts just kept on giving. The second you walk through its welcoming glass doors you’re invited to take in an atmosphere laced in a hip, carefree, translucent vibe. From wide-open spaces perfect for entertaining larger parties, to cozy corners tucked away for intimate catch-ups, this is a restaurant for any occasion. Food Society transports you to a European home full of rustic charm, where you’ll discover cute and kitsch trinkets hidden in nooks and crannies creating cool conversation starters and making you feel right at home.
If the atmosphere was the first gift the impressive list of almost 30 vodka variations was the second. From Austria to Russia, Israel to a few from our own back yard, this is a vodka connoisseur’s heaven on earth. In addition to the international selection, Food Society also boast their very own house infused vodkas made from premium rye vodka, as well as a selection of chocolate based desert vodkas.
However, we didn’t quite make the vodka trail as we couldn’t go past the exquisite cocktail list. I started with a go-to favorite gin based cocktail, Kandinsky. Made with Sipsmiths elderflower gin, lychee liqueur and earl grey tea, this refined London dry overflowed with juniper flavor and a hint of lemon and spice. A favorite of the Earl, he ordered a Ginger old fashioned which delivered in every way on the ginger taste thanks to the house infuse ginger syrup. Both wonderfully warm drinks to start the festivities with.
The gift of food though… I lost my voice for conversation. The Earl carried the majority of this while I allowed myself to be wrapped up in the honest, authentic flavors created by a chef who understands less is more when done well. Chef Marcel Osato formerly of Sugar Room and Merivale has created an Eastern European menu full of warming, bold, textured, homely comfort, without the heavy after effects.
We started with the signature dish, fried cauliflower, which was just the beginning of things to come. Beautifully cooked cauliflower encased in a crunchy, light batter and finished in a sweet reduced red wine vinegar, this was a dish that danced on our taste buds and had us all going back for more.
We thought the cauliflower would be a hard act to follow, but the crispy tapioca cubes with melting, creamy haloumi hiding inside proved to be an over achiever competing for signature dish! These expertly toasted gems conjured up the taste of a gourmet cheese toasty. Like I said, less done well gives so much more, especially in the flavor department. Served with a smoky tomato relish on the side, it was a dish with amazing levels of texture and taste you have to try to fully appreciate.
I have to pause a moment here to really pay homage to a classic European dish, pierogi, the Polish version of dumplings. Share plates of the three cheese, duck ragu and potato and bacon pierogi sent the room into a hushed hum full of of blissful smiles. Osato has created delicious, tender pockets packed full of rich flavors that allow each ingredient to individually sing while being complimented by a surprise touch in each. The three cheese and duck ragu pierogi offered a hint of earthy sage and the potato and bacon a sweet, yet punchy zing from the pickled mushroom and red wine vinegar, topped with a salty parmesan cheese waif. I highly recommend you do not leave Food Society without tasting at least one of these pierogi dishes.
We continued our taste excursion trying out more of the classics including a meze board of rye bread, delectable cured truffle salami, char grilled, smoky csabi sausage and spiced, fiery nduja salami all balanced out by a creamy chive and cottage cheese dip and pickled vegetables. The Earl treated himself to a humble grain salad with wonderfully charred, tender octopus and calamari. And we were both introduced to the well-loved, traditional German dish, spatzle. Centered somewhere between pasta and dumplings, these soft egg noodles were served with a creamy and rich egg yolk dressing balanced by the soft zing of dill and meddled with tender, sweet locally sourced prawns.
All of these dishes are created to share in a group, we’d recommend selecting at least two (three for bigger eaters) for a group of four with at least one of the following, lovingly prepared meat dishes to accompany them.
The slow roasted pork knuckle. The essence of a home cooked dinner, would match any of these smaller share plates flawlessly. Served to the table on the bone to carve yourself, the meat was so deliciously tender and juicy it almost fell away from the bone forgoing the blade. Sheltered by perfectly crisped, puffed crackling which had me sighing air control, it was so super light and salty, cracking effortlessly between the teeth. The richness of the crackling was cut by a vibrant mustard and pickled apple accompaniment to balance the whole dish. We also shared with the group a humble yet tasty duck breast schnitzel, again, beautifully cooked it was encased in a crispy crumb and served with the creamiest of celeriac cream and pickled grapes.
With not a lot of room left for sweet delight, the party shared each of the two dessert dishes. My favorite the soft, spongy Czech style honey cake. Piled high on the plate and adorned with a decadent salted caramel cream and a snap crack toffee honeycomb that was actually paired perfectly to my Kandinsky gin cocktail that spliced the honeycomb with a hint of lemon zest. We also indulged a little more in the housemade ricotta doughnuts swimming in plum jam berries and amaretto honey – a simple yet sweetly satisfying end to a perfect evening of celebration.
Described by Food Society as “a menu designed to share” we couldn’t agree more and know we’ll definitely be back to experience the taste sensation, and that wall of 30+ vodkas, again and again.
The Earl and Countess were honored to attend the fifth birthday of Food Society as guests and would like to especially thank Chef Marcel Osato for the tasty European culinary affair. Also all the very professional, knowledgeable staff who served us on the night with both an energy and passion we found infectious. Special thanks also to Amy and Lucia from The Buzz Group, it was lovely to meet you both and share a meal and chat all things food.
Food Society is open Thursday to Saturday from 6pm until late with vodka high tea every Saturday from 12.30 until 4.30pm. Available Sunday to Wednesday for groups and exclusive bookings. For reservations, contact Food Society on 02 8090 3462, email dining@foodsociety.com.au or make an online booking through www.foodsociety.com.au.